The area around Sutton Place has been a culinary dead zone ever since the beloved Irish pub Neary’s closed two years ago. Now, at last, the area has fresh life with the opening of The Derby Club in the former Neary’s space at 348 East 57th Street.

The new spot from chef/partner Ed Cotton is not Neary’s 2.0, despite having the original cherrywood bar at the front and “Neary’s mint jelly” on the menu.

It’s an altogether new venue more resplendent than its predecessor and with vastly better food. The steakhouse menu far surpasses the fare at similar speakeasies around town.

The rectangular dining room at first recalls Neary’s with the bar exactly…

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